While returning to Shenzhen, an unexpected desire welled up within me to recount my journey to Lhasa, Tibet.
在回深圳的路上,我突然想和大家分享一下我在西藏拉萨的游记。
During my one-week itinerary, I explored various scenic spots including the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, and Namtso Lake. Reflecting on my journey to Lhasa, the memories paint my heart with the hues of the plateau's sunlight once more. While there is a lack of selfies, I've captured enduring impressions through photography, albeit far from exhaustive. Consequently, I must acknowledge the limitations of my photography skills.
在我一周的行程中,我游览了数个景点,如布达拉宫、大昭寺和纳木措。每当我回想起拉萨之旅,我的心似乎又一次被高原上的太阳染上颜色。尽管完全没有我的自拍,但是我通过摄影记录了那些永远深刻打动我的一切,却远不够全面。因此,我不得不承认我的摄影技术竟然如此有限。
Day 1: Laru Wetland
第1天:拉鲁湿地
I began my journey in the Laru Wetland, a natural park situated in the northern suburbs of Lhasa.
我首先从拉鲁湿地开始了我的旅程,这是坐落在拉萨北郊的自然公园。
I selected Laru Wetland as my initial destination primarily due to concerns about altitude stress. The primary cause is often a lack of oxygen, and choosing a location with ample oxygen supply can aid in overcoming altitude stress more comfortably. Locals refer to the wetland as "the lungs of Lhasa," hence I promptly visited it right after checking into the hotel.
我选择拉鲁湿地作为第一个地点,首要原因是出于对高原反应的担忧。大多数情况下,缺氧是主要原因,如果人们能找到一个相对供氧充足的地方,他们就会更容易克服高原反应。这片湿地被当地人称为“拉萨之肺”,所以我一入住酒店后就赶去了那里。
Secondly, the wetland serves as an ideal location for photographing the Potala Palace. From across a small lake, the majestic palace unfolds on the opposite shore. The interplay of cloud shadows on hills, the sky mirrored in the lake's waters, and the architectural marvel crafted by ancient Tibetans create a stunning visual tapestry reminiscent of the most exquisite Thangka painting I could envision.
其次,这个湿地是拍摄布达拉宫的好地方。隔着一个小湖,我能看到对岸宏伟的宫殿。山上天光云影,湖水映着天空,还有古藏人建造的建筑奇迹,那是我所能想象到最绚丽的唐卡。
Moreover, Laru Wetland plays a vital role as a habitat for various bird species on the plateau, including storks, cranes, and larks. Witnessing a bird gracefully gliding above the water, coincidentally positioned in front of the Potala Palace, left a lasting impression that found its way into my dreams that night.
顺便一提,拉鲁湿地也是高原上某些鸟类的关键栖息地,如鹳、鹤和云雀。当一只鸟迅速地掠过水面时,碰巧它在布达拉宫的前面。那天晚上,这个景象进入了我的梦中。
Day 2: Potala Palace
第2天:布达拉宫
Buckingham Palace is elegant yet inadequate of stateliness, and Versilles Palace is opulent yet somewhat garish. In contrast, Potala Palace has the power to captivate anyone fortunate enough to witness its magnificence.
白金汉宫优雅却有欠威严,凡尔赛宫宏伟但略为浮夸,而但凡看过布达拉宫的人都会惊叹。
As I stood on Potala Square, the palace enchanted me with its intriguing features. With a height of approximately 120 meters and a width exceeding 360 meters, Potala Palace appears colossal. Observing it, the red section resembled a sunlit mountain summit, while the white portion resembled snow-covered slopes. Below the palace, there are additional structures, known as "Xue Cheng," which translates to "snow city" in Chinese, yet in Tibetan, it signifies “the city down the hill.”
站在布达拉广场上,我沉醉于这座宫殿:这是一座山吗?高约120米,宽360多米,布达拉宫如此气势磅礴。当我在看宫殿的时候,我发现红色的部分似乎是阳光照耀下的山顶,而白色的部分看起来像被雪覆盖的绵绵山坡。宫殿之下还有一些附属建筑,即“雪城”,在汉语中听起来像“白雪之城”,但在藏语中确切的意思是“山下之城”。
Yet, many people only admire Potala Palace from the square, often overlooking its rear view. Allow me to recommend Lukhang Park, a spot ideal for observing the palace from its backside. It's fair to assert that the rear view of the palace had a more profound impact on me than its frontal aspect, prompting me to capture even more photographs.
然而,大多数人只是从广场上观看布达拉宫,而忽略了它的背面。我必须推荐一个地点,宗角禄康公园,在那里观看宫殿背面再合适不过。有理由要说明,宫殿的背面比正面更让我震撼,所以我拍了更多的照片。
Potala Palace, as a renowned cultural heritage, draws countless people from around the world. I deeply admire the wisdom of the ancient Tibetans who created such a marvel in human engineering.
布达拉宫作为一处著名的文化遗产,吸引着无数来自世界各地的游客。我很佩服古藏人的智慧,也就是创造了人类工程学上奇迹的人们。
Day 3: Norbulingka Garden
第3天:罗布林卡花园
While commonly referred to as "Norbulingka Palace" in English due to its historical use as the summer palace of Tibetan religious leaders, I disagree with this designation. In Tibetan, "Norbu" translates to treasure, and "Lingka" to garden, specifically rendering "Norbulingka" as a garden filled with treasures.
在英语中人们通常称之为“罗布林卡宫”,因为它曾经是西藏宗教领袖的夏宫,但我并不赞同。在藏语中,“罗布”的意思是宝藏,“林卡”的意思是花园,“罗布林卡”的意思是充满宝藏的花园。
The architecture of Norbulingka Garden distinctly blends Tibetan architectural elements with features of a Chinese garden, symbolizing the historical cultural exchange between Tibet and central China. It indeed serves as a garden filled with treasures, encompassing not only material richness but also profound spiritual significance.
罗布林卡花园的结构显然是藏式建筑与中式园林的结合,因此它在历史上扮演了西藏与中原文化交流的象征角色。这的确是一座充满财富的花园,不仅在于物质,更是在于精神。
As I wandered through the garden, I found myself fully immersed in its enchanting ambiance. The temple's golden roofs shimmered in the sunlight, and along the walls, birds sang joyfully in the trees. Stepping onto the paths, a vibrant array of gasang and other flowers intermingled, creating a breathtaking display of colors.
当我在花园里漫步,我情不自禁地沉浸其中。寺庙四周,金色的屋顶反射太阳的光辉;沿着墙边,树上的鸟儿正在欢快地歌唱;踏上小道,格桑与更多的花卉锦簇,形成缤纷色彩。
Throughout history, two great civilizations—ancient China and ancient India—have significantly influenced Tibetan culture. The interaction with these civilizations catalyzed the gradual maturation of Tibetan culture, resulting in its unique character today. For a detailed exploration of this history, I will elaborate within the context of Jokhang Temple.
历史上影响西藏文化的,有古中国和古印度两大文明。这种交流催化了西藏文化的逐渐成熟,以至于如今的西藏文化是如此独特。至于历史上的细节,我将结合大昭寺的背景阐述。
Day 4: Namtso Lake
第4天:纳木措湖
Tibet boasts three chief sacred lakes, namely Yamdrok, Manasarovar, and the exceptionally picturesque Namtso.
在西藏有三大圣湖:羊卓雍措,玛旁雍措,以及特别美丽的纳木措。
On my way to the lake that day, I was concerned about the rainy weather. However, native Tibetans reassured me that the weather around Namtso Lake often varies unexpectedly, much like most regions on the plateau. True to their words, the rain persisted until our arrival, but miraculously subsided, and the mist gradually faded away afterward.
那天在去湖边的路上,我很担心会下雨。然后,当地藏民安慰说,纳木措湖的天气经常出乎意料地变化,正如高原上的大多数地区一样。确实,雨一直下直到我们到达那里,雾也随之消散。
Despite the nearly 6-hour round trip, Namtso Lake proved absolutely worth the journey. I struggled to find a single word that precisely captures the essence of the lake—limpid, azure, or glistening all fall short. In essence, the lake dispelled all my melancholy.
最终,我花了近6个小时往返于此,尽管如此,纳木措湖绝对值得。我想不出一个准确的词来形容这个湖,也许是清澈,也许是蔚蓝,也许是闪闪发光。总之,这个湖驱散了我所有的忧愁。
Although the recurring altitude stress, as the highest point of Namtso Lake reaches roughly 5200 meters, my passion for capturing its beauty remained unwavering. This is a sapphire, a piece of jadeite, an illusion from paradise.
尽管高原反应再次出现,因为纳木措湖的最高点可以达到海拔约5200米,但是我对拍摄纳木措湖的热情从未熄灭。这是蓝宝石,这是翡翠玉,这是来自于天国的幻觉。
Day 5: Jokhang Temple
第5天:大昭寺
In terms of historical significance and cultural heritage, the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa stands as an equivalent counterpart to the Potala Palace. Both are iconic landmarks deeply rooted in Tibetan history and culture.
在拉萨是否有与布达拉宫具备历史地位同等的文化遗产?那一定是大昭寺。
Nearly 1400 years ago, a decisive event unfolded with the entrance of Princess Wencheng into Tibet. Concurrently, King Srongtsen Gampo of the Tibetan Kingdom married another princess, Brikuti, from Nepal. In commemoration of these unions, King Srongtsen Gampo constructed the Jokhang Temple.
近1400年前,有一个决定性的事件,文成公主入藏。与此同时,西藏王国的国王松赞干布迎娶了另一位来自尼泊尔的尺尊公主,并建造了大昭寺作为纪念。
Today, Jokhang Temple stands at the core of Tibetan Buddhism, serving as the focal point for the conferral of the highest degree in Buddhism, known as "lha-rams-pa," through Dharma ceremonies. The temple is adorned with numerous Buddhist frescoes and idols, and as artworks, their artistic value is truly worthy of appreciation.
如今,大昭寺已成为藏传佛教的核心,佛教的最高学位“拉让巴”也需要在通过大昭寺的法会授予。寺庙里还有一些佛教壁画或佛像,作为艺术品,它们的艺术价值值得欣赏。
Additionally, I came across a Buddhist text debate within Jokhang Temple. While the scale of this debate may not rival that of Sera Monastery, it's worth mentioning nonetheless.
此外,我在大昭寺碰巧看到了辩经。虽然这场辩论的规模不可能像色拉寺那样大,但它仍然应该被提及。
Day 6: Sera Monastery
第6天:色拉寺
Sera Monastery stands as one of the three chief monasteries in Lhasa, alongside Ganden and Drepung. Among these three, Sera Monastery is particularly captivating due to the brilliance of the Buddhist text debates that take place within the temple.
色拉寺是拉萨三大寺之一,另外两座是甘丹寺和哲蚌寺。其中色拉寺最为引人注目,因为有着非常精彩的色拉寺辩经。
At 3:00 pm, monks gathered in the debate court. Following a brief prayer, the debates commenced with pairs of monks engaging in intellectual discussions.
下午3时,僧人在辩经场集合。经过了短暂的祷告后,每两位僧人一组开始了他们的辩论。
Unlike monks in central China, Tibetan monks exhibit a remarkable enthusiasm for engaging in debates on Buddhist texts. They often use clapping as a way to prompt their sitting partners to respond, and the resounding sound echoes in the vicinity. According to an elderly monk I spoke with after the debate, Buddhist philosophy is the predominant topic they extensively discuss during these sessions.
与中原的僧人不同,西藏的僧人更倾向于热情地讨论佛经。他们经常拍手,以此催促坐在那里的搭档回答问题,在很远的地方他们的声音就能被听到。据一位辩论结束后和我聊天的资深僧人说,佛教哲学是他们讨论最多的话题。
I was deeply moved by their fervor for acquiring knowledge, and I made a wish that my Lord could bless me with the same enthusiasm for learning the Bible.
他们学习知识的热情让我很感动,我也向上主许愿,愿上主祝福我在学习《圣经》时也能有同样的热情。
Day 7: Nakin Mountain
第7天:纳金山
On the final day of my itinerary, I visited Nakin Mountain renowned for its prayer flags. As a Christian, I refrain from hanging such flags; nevertheless, I was profoundly moved by the spectacular view they created.
在行程的最后一天,我参观了以经幡闻名的纳金山。作为一名基督徒,我被严格禁止悬挂这类经幡,但我仍被如此壮观的景色深深打动。
Tibetan Buddhists believe that every time the wind blows the flags, it carries their wishes to the gods, and they inscribe their desires on the flags before hanging them above Nakin Mountain. This practice embodies a genuine expression of emotions, and as recipients of the Lord's benevolence, it prompts us to pray for them all.
藏传佛教徒认为,每当风吹动经幡时,上帝就会祝福他们,因此他们将自己的愿望写上经幡并高悬纳金山上。这是种原始的情感,来自于上主的仁爱要求我为他们所有人而祷告。
As the prayer flags fluttered in the wind, I found myself contemplating the answers to questions about my life. Amidst both fortunes and challenges, I've received baptism, and my sins have been forgiven. Beneath those prayer flags, I offered my prayers to the Lord and expressed my personal wishes.
当经幡在风中飘扬时,我在沉思着寻找关于我生命的答案。在我的生命中,有幸运也有烦恼,但我接受了洗礼,我的原罪被赦免了。在那些经幡下,我也向上主祈祷,许下了自己的愿望。
My mouth necessarily exalts the LORD, for whom all blessings flow; my lips unshakenly glorify Jesus Christ, for whom delivered me from the evil one.
我的口必称颂上主的名,各样的福都是因祂而发。我的唇要毫不动摇地荣耀耶稣基督,因为祂救赎我脱离了那恶者。
——————
On the plateau, the echoes of ancient Tibetans have never elapsed in the long river of history. Spontaneously, a romantic poem written by Tsangyang Gyatso, the greatest poet in Tibet, enters my mind:
高原之上,古藏人的回音未曾消逝在历史长河中。我不禁想起了一首浪漫的诗,由西藏最伟大的诗人仓央嘉措所作:
O ye the white crane, my dear!
Prithee lend me thy wings here.
I will not fly far and wide,
but'll return from Lithang all right.
亲爱的白鹤啊!
请借我一双翅膀。
我不会远走高飞,
到了理塘就回来。
But now, I must fly far and wide, wish will return from Lithang one day. The memory of my journey in Lhasa will be engraved in my heart forever, and I do hope that the LORD takes care of Tibet everlastingly.
但现在,我必须远走高飞,愿有一天我从理塘再飞回来。拉萨之旅的记忆将永远铭刻在我的心中,我也祈愿上主永远看顾西藏。
Farewell, the land of Tsangyang Gyatso!
Farewell, the legend of King Gesar!
Farewell, the plateau of limpid lakes!
Farewell, the miracle of opulent palace!
Farewell, the temples of golden place!
Farewell, the smile of Tibetan face!
别了,仓央嘉措的土地!
别了,格萨尔王的传说!
别了,清澈湖泊的高原!
别了,华丽宫殿的奇迹!
别了,黄金土地的庙宇!
别了,藏人脸上的笑容!